If your interested have look at the tools you will need to build the bench.

Material choice

Always is the case, the material you choose is guided by the pocketbook, however I am suggesting plywood for the strength and is pliable to the shape desired.  Note : in choosing the wood look for a dens grain thus this will provide for a better finished product.  If you decide for MDF (Medium Density Fiberboard) this will make for better paint finish, however there is one draw back, it can not be nailed into from the edge. This usually split the material apart. One way to prevent that is to pre drilled (pilot holes) into the material.

Cutting the material

Is the first thing you will need to do. Use drawing 39 thru 46 this will help you minimize your cuts. Identify the pieces that will make up the box, and start cutting them. Once all of the box and shelf pieces are cut and ID (identified) them.   Use the detailed drawings, to make the additional cuts for the grooves. You may want to include all similar cuts by identifying them and processing them together.  e.g. the box shelving. To keep drawer slide equal in height you will need to cut the right side plank, then using the same saw setting, pass the left hand (opposite side) plank for the same drawer slide. Be careful not mix you planks.

Note: If you decide for a stain finished where the grain will be shown. Keep in mind when cutting the front drawer panels to keep the grain direction organized by making them with an ID of sort. So, when assembling the drawers the front panel will look as if they came from the same piece of material.

Before assembly

Familiar yourself with the drawings supplied specifically, the assembly drawings. This should give you a feel for the steps, that are to be taken. Also dry fit the pieces together before nail or screw and gluing them.

Cutting the drawer parts

After cutting all the pieces for the drawers. Refer to the detailed drawings and mark on the parts their ID accordingly, then, organize stacks of similar part together. e.g. all the bottoms for drawer type part # D19.  This will help in the assembly process.
For sliding the drawer in/out easier, a surface trim about 1/64" deep using a 1/2" dado cut on both surfaces all around will provide the relief (gap) for the drawers to glide in/out with out sticking, also, it removes the surface finish allowing for the glue to work better.

Help with a jig for drawer handles

Some processes are repetitious and tedious. With a jig the process is simplified.

To make the drawer handles, we need to cut 3/4" dia. holes at 3/8" from the top edge of the front drawer panel. With the smaller drawers this prove to be difficult since they tend to want to spin with the cutter (drill). To aid with the process a jig is created for the drill press to prevent the spinning and keep a constant 3/8" from edge distance. Use a small piece of scrap plank as the base then nail a strip of material 3/8" from the center of the cutter (drill bit) as shown in the picture. For the drawer box panel shown in the first picture a larger hole is created to reduce the thickness of the opening. After attaching the front face panel to the drawer box the hole can be sanded down some more for a softer touch.

Special tools

The nail gun, not a must, however highly recommended to get the job done. This will speed up the process dramatically.

Drill press is also a tool that will greatly help improve accuracy with some tasks.

A list of other tools you will need

Assembly of drawers

• Assemble all the drawer boxes without the front face panel.

• Slide all the drawer into their designated position and ensure they fit and work properly. Some trimming may be required for the drawers to slide in easily.

• Layout all front face panels in their perspective position. You may want to ensure the wood grain in matching the layout for a better finish.

• With the drawer box in place. Start with the bottom left drawer. Generously add glue to the box front panel and placing front face panel in position, then tack the front face panel to the box front panel together.  For the larger drawers, some 3/8" No.8 wood screw can be placed from the inside to add strength in the bonding.

• Be sure to line up the gaps evenly between drawers and with the grain as possible. This can be achieved by using a 1/8" thick piece of material to acquire a constant gap setting. Continue this process with all drawers.

Beefing up the structure

At one end of the BENCH BUDDY are some long stock drawers. Without some support the drawers may slip out of the drawer guides. To remedy this two cross support beams are added. These are best positioned under a drawer slide as shown.

Modifications

The Hobby Bench Buddy is not restricted to the outlined design.  You are welcome to modify it in the matter it would benefit you.

e.g.

• Drawer dividers - create your own partitions to organize your stock and tools. You can use a variety of material to create the partitions needed. Best suited material is 1/8"masonite it is strong and easy to work with. For hardware stock drawers, I found that cardboard preferably Bristol board make a good candidate.
  

• Hatch access door for stock bin.  This one was discovered when the bench table (work surface) was in use with a project on the go and could not be moved. This made it difficult to access the stock bin, since it needed to be opened from the top. The modification converts one of the end panels into a hatch assess door, and reinforcing the stock bin compartment. Download drawings 

JIGS

Drawers

Shelves

Storage Ideas

Miscellaneous

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